 Pro detailer Ken Wilson. Click image to enlarge |
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Wash Tips from a Pro
Owning a car or truck is a significant investment, and as such, proper steps should be taken to preserve its value. While most consumers recognize that regular oil changes and scheduled service calls are important to ensure the reliable operation of their vehicles, very few people pay much attention to the maintenance of the car’s external surfaces or interior. Most believe that the occasional visit to the car wash should suffice, and if they have any change leftover, they may vacuum out those errant fries that have been under the seat since last summer. In reality, detailing is one of the most valuable services your vehicle requires.
I recently paid a visit to the shop of master detailer Ken Wilson in an effort to get a better understanding of what it takes to keep a vehicle looking its best. Ken is an automotive enthusiast himself, so he knows how much his clients enjoy their automobiles. As a result, he is meticulous in his work, and the end results are truly stunning. Over the course of an afternoon, Ken and I discussed his industry, various products, the needs and wants of his clients, and most importantly, how the average consumer can detail his own car with far less effort than expected in a couple of hours.
Once you get familiar with the various steps involved in a thorough detail it will become a regular part of your car’s maintenance plan, and you may find you even enjoy it. There are basically four steps to detailing the outside of the car: washing, claying, polishing and sealing/waxing. Washing and vacuuming should happen at least every two weeks, while the other three are required as needed based on environmental conditions and/or time factors. Interior detailing should also be a regular activity to reduce the effects of exposure to the sun, dirt and dust, as well as prevent the intrusion of odours, moisture and mould.
 Sponges and towels. Click image to enlarge |
Washing requires two buckets. One is your rinse bucket, while the other is for your soapy water. A sheepskin mitt is your best bet, as the grit moves away from the surface and gets in the pile, but is easily removed in the rinse bucket water. (Please see side-bar for Ken’s detailed wash tips). Wash in sections from front-to-back, top-to-bottom.
If you need to use a wheel cleaner, read and follow the instructions, then do one wheel at a time. Ken sees evidence of wheel damage caused from the misuse of these products everyday, and it tends to be expensive to fix. He suggests you spray on the cleaner and give it a little time to work before rinsing it off. Finish the job with the soapy microfiber mitt and rinse.
“Use a product like Simple Green, diluted in water, to clean the wheel wells. Spray them down with the solution or an all-purpose cleaner, agitate with a brush, then rinse.”
Cleaning windows can be a chore, but Ken finds that an alcohol based cleaner and a waffle weave microfiber towel make this job quick and easy. Steel wool (000-grade) can be used to get heavy residue or stickers off in a hurry, and can be found in the painting section of your local hardware supply store.
Completely dry the car’s surface using waffle weave microfiber towels to prevent water spots. Cotton towels should be avoided, as they are quite abrasive.
After you have washed and dried your car it may not be completely clean. The paint may contain surface deposits and contamination, so special clay is used to pull the impurities from the surface, leaving it perfectly smooth. A dedicated lubricant spray provides a slick surface to rub the clay on, and just like with the washing process, the motion should be back-and-forth on a horizontal plane, not circular. Ken recommends that this process be done once a year, preferably in the spring, as it would clean the paint of all the grime and pollutants that come with winter road conditions. It also works on glass.
Polishing is used as a means to rid the car of surface imperfections such as scratches and oxidation, but it also helps bring out the colour of the paint.
  Detailing pads (top) and polishing pads. Click image to enlarge |
There are two categories of automotive polishes – chemical and abrasive. A chemical polish is used to clean the surface and remove oxidation. An abrasive polish removes a small portion of the clear coat, and is usually employed to remove heavy oxidation and deep scratches, and is typically applied using a rotary or random orbital buffer. Abrasive polishes are classified by how abrasive they are, ranging from “rubbing compound” to “finishing polish.” A variety of different application pads are available and all should be carefully matched to the abrasiveness of each compound.
“There is a misconception that regular polishing strips the clear coat off your car. When I am working on a high-end car I use a paint thickness gauge to tell me how many microns of paint is on the car. This will help me decide what my plan of attack will be. This Ferrari has 250 microns of paint on this fender. If I work on this fender with a one-step polish to bring the paint out, I might, at most, take one micron of paint off the car. A 3-stage polish might knock two microns off the clear coat. The amount of clear coat you take off with polishing is so insignificant. In general I would recommend that you have your car polished once a year.”
I should point out that Ken has noted some pretty significant variations in OEM paint thicknesses lately, and some were concerning enough that one customer was having his brand new car sprayed with another coat of clear for protection. As a result, you may still want to leave the polishing step to a professional.
“All the clear coats are different, so it is important to know what you are dealing with at the outset. For example, shops in England won’t work on Hondas due to the softness of their paint, but we do not have that issue. Porsches have very sticky paint, whereas Audis are very hard. Modern Mercedes-Benz vehicles have ceramic clear coats, which are also very hard, so getting scratches out is very time consuming.”
After having polished your pride and joy you need to protect it. Synthetic sealants provide a more durable finish than wax, and are easy to apply.
“For consumers, I prefer sealants over waxes any day of the week. They last longer, they take abuse better, and they are very easy to apply. In short, they are quick and easy, and that is what the Average Joe is looking for. There are some quick spray on products available that can be applied in an hour, yet offer six months protection.”
A wax will bond to a sealant, but a sealant won’t bond with a wax. This means that if you choose to use a sealant and wax combination, it is necessary to apply the sealant first.
A good carnauba wax product should be applied every three or four months to help protect your car’s finish from the likes of acid rain, dirt, bird droppings and bug splatter. It also helps repel water which can leave spots.
 Polishing. Click image to enlarge |
“Most waxes should last four to six weeks, but some of the better ones can last months. With these products you really do get what you pay for. Many of the decorative waxes look phenomenal when you get done, but they have poor durability.”
Waxes come in liquid, paste or cream form. Ken suggests that you apply your wax super thin, because when it dries, it dries really hard and becomes very difficult to get off.
“Be careful to read the instructions for any product you use, but for carnauba waxes especially, as you should be buffing it off immediately after applying it to the car. Just do small sections at a time, like a door half or fender.”
Ken also pointed out that most waxes advertise that they provide a high-gloss look, but in reality, carnauba waxes tend to mute metallic flake. He also stressed that you should be careful if you choose a product labelled as a “cleaner wax,” as they can be quite abrasive.
Slide the seats all the way forward and back to get everything from underneath with a vacuum. Use a crevice tool to get between the seats, and always look under the floor mats.
 Brushes for interior cleaning. Click image to enlarge |
“Look in the seams and welts of the seat cushions for debris as items like sesame seeds and dirt will eventually cause the threads to rot.”
There are lots of brushed made for detailers, but Ken finds certain commonplace paint brushes to work very well.
“I like to use a 2.5-inch natural bristle sash paint brush to get into vents, around door trim and gauges. Unlike the natural bristles, polyester brushes don’t bend back when you bend them. The natural bristles also don’t scratch or mar surfaces. And don’t forget to dust around the steering wheel emblem!”
There are a host of interior shampoos out there, but the trick is they need to be mild enough to not damage the materials and fabrics. If you are sensitive to odours, it may be wise to unscrew the cap and smell the product prior to purchase to see if you can bear it should it linger for a few days after you perform the detail.
Leather interiors require a two-step treatment that includes both a cleaner and a conditioner. Light scrubbing with a microfiber towel will help direct the cleaner to heavily soiled areas. After buffing the cleaner off with a towel, carefully apply the conditioner as directed on the label. This is vital, as is a final buffing with a towel, otherwise you will get streaking. Ken suggests you condition your leather every three to four months.
“If you need to use a UV protectant on your interior or trim, try to find a water-based one as the silicone ones tend to dry out the plastic. Use a microfiber pad to apply the product, and spray it on the pad rather than on the surface to prevent further clean-up due to overspray.”
It is important to do your research. Don’t just fall for a flashy label or clever marketing hype. Find the products that best meet your needs and budget. Many of the product manufacturer web sites have detailed application instructions and guidelines posted for their individual products.
“I would suggest that your readers search the web for detailing forums. There are usually experts out there that will help answer your questions, or you might find individuals who have posted information that can point you in the right direction.”
The typical clear coat finish on the modern automobile is very soft and less durable than paints of the past. As a result, it is more important than ever to protect your vehicle’s finish with either a wax or sealant. Regularly washing and detailing will extend the life of your vehicle, make it more attractive, and protect it from depreciation.
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